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Almost Home for the Holidays…
It was Passover, and the family had gathered, or more accurately had squeezed, around a series of tables in my apartment living room. My children, grandchildren, sister, niece and nephew, cousins and friends were well into the Seder when I realized that come September and Rosh Hashanah, this scene would not repeat. I would be in Germany, attending a family wedding. When the strains of Kol Nidre filled the air, I would not be at Tifereth Israel, where I had observed Yom Kippur for the last 16 years. I would be in London, far from family and friends. Sadness came over me. Happily, my predicament was soon resolved with the help of the Internet, Micah Kaplan and Rabbi Fenster. Here is what happened:
It began with a search of synagogues in London. I matched my hotel location on Gloucester Road in Kensington to synagogues in the area. Some had Web sites, and one seemed to reach out and speak to me. I found myself looking at photos of an amazing place. I read the history and viewed pictures of weddings, events and other activities that had taken place there. One idea that especially touched me was that seemingly familiar faces and situations were happening in a place thousands of miles away. I felt as though I knew these people. If I could not be home for Yom Kippur, the New West End Synagogue on St. Petersburgh Place, London, was where I wanted to be.
The application to visit for the High Holidays was lengthy and filled with questions about who, what, when, where and why the traveler was intending to visit, plus passport data and other personal information. There was a request for letters of reference and an introduction from my rabbi and a director of my congregation. Micah Kaplan and Rabbi Fenster provided documents to vouch for me. There was, as one would expect, the requisite donation to the synagogue, and British pounds were dispatched via American Express. Security of synagogues continues to be a serious subject in London as it is in most other cities around the world. How lucky we are to have a safe, open door at Tifereth Israel.
On September 26, I was in London. Street and Underground maps showed me the way to the New West End Synagogue. I was thrilled to discover it was only a few stops from my hotel. No need to take a taxi. I donned my best proper shul attire, complete with a hat, and I was off. As I approached the cordoned-off street, I was keenly aware of a different world. Several London Bobbies wearing bulletproof vests stood guard outside this glorious structure, and what appeared to be private security guards were positioned just inside the doors. My name was on a list, and after verifying my identity, I was warmly greeted by several members of the congregation. One might have thought I was royalty given the wonderful welcome I received. After a tour by a representative of the shul, I was directed to my seat, high above the sanctuary floor. My view was of soaring gold domes, towering arches, rose windows, and seating for 800 or more worshippers. The synagogue housed 20 Torahs, the rabbis were dressed in formal silk ritual wear and top hats, and at least five cantors were prepared to sing and chant. The women came dressed in their holiday best, and most of the men prayed with prayer shawls covering their heads.
It was breathtaking. No, it was more that. It was spellbinding. I felt so lucky to be there. As different from Tifereth Israel as the space was, that is how truly the same it was. When the familiar strains of the Kol Nidre prayer rang out in this vaulted room, I had to hold back my tears. It was wonderful to be a Jew, even far away in London. I encourage you to visit the Web site of this extraordinary place. Go to www.newwestend.org.uk/. Click on "Galleries and Architecture." View the sanctuary, read about current activities and the history and events of the past, particularly the weddings during World War II. I think you will be as thrilled as I was.
--Marian Friedmann
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